A Viognier Story: River pirates, wine loving monks and diligent viticulture.

By Todd Joneck

I didn’t think I really liked Viognier until recently. I love a good bottle of this varietal including one we currently pour at Joneck’s from New Clairvaux Vinyard. 

You can find a wine you like (or hate) from any varietal if you look long enough.  Making great wine is the culmination of proper farming practices and proper wine making techniques for the grape in question. Understanding the challenges a wine maker has to contend with to tame the finicky Viognier grape has increased my respect for winemakers. 

History of the grape

First a little history of Viognier for those who dig this stuff. 

The ancient Romans knew the grape which was brought to the Rhone valley in the third century A.D. either deliberately by a reigning emperor or appropriated from a river cargo ship by a group of brigands known as the culs de piaux (that’s “Ass of Peace” for us non-Francophiles). 

I’m not sure which image I like better: A group of miscreants disappointed that their riverboat heist has gleaned little more than a stack of uprooted vines or wine obsessed scofflaws sticking it to their Roman overlords by robbing their prized vines.

Either way it has been a staple of the region since then where it is common in blends and is the only grape permitted in Condrieu and Château Grillet appellations. 

It almost went extinct due to an infestation of North American pests (crop pests, not tourists) and the ravages of World War I.  It’s now cultivated extensively in several regions outside of the Rhone valley and outside of Europe.

Why is it hard to make a great Viognier?

When done well, Viognier is loved for its aromatic floral notes and full body but why is it so difficult to achieve this ideal?

First, Viognier takes a long time to reach peak production (15-20 years), and harvests can be variable with vines of any age.  It is more dependent on harvest time than most grapes and it can be tough to get this timing right. 

It’s also very picky about exposure to oxygen during fermentation with its best flavors being obtained by finely controlled low exposure to oxygen.  Imagine making that work well without modern technology!  

Given these challenges it’s no wonder that some viognier wines don’t excite me.  Harvest too early and it’s bland, acidic and lacking in its aromatic characteristics.  Pick grapes too late and you’ll experience a similar lack of aromatics and excessive alcohol. Put it in a well-sealed stainless steel vessel for fermentation and you’ll fail to have an interesting wine.  But ferment with the minor air exposure tolerated or required by many varietals and you’ll have something undrinkable.

New Clarvaux Vineyard and their 2024 Viognier

New Clarvaux Vineyard in Vina California has a rich and heartwarming history.  I love the themes of generosity and partnership that weave the story together.

The vineyards of rich volcanic soil were first developed by Peter Lassen (yeah that Lassen) in the 1840s and was later purchased by governor Leland Stanford (you’ve heard of this guy too) who developed it into what for a time was the world’s largest wine operation.

It was later sold to a Christian organization that established a seminary and related operations including sacramental wine production.  In 1989 a commercial interest from Japan purchased the land and graciously donated much of it to the nearby Abbey of New Clarvaux. 

Around 2000 the Sanseri family, the oldest established wine making family in the Napa Valley, approached their long-time friends and neighbors at the abbey to partner on a commercial enterprise that would become New Clarvaux Vineyard.  Grapes are sourced from both the Abbey of New Clarvaux and vineyards owned by the Sunseri family. 

Today New Clarvaux’s wine maker, Aimée Sunseri, continues the tradition started by her great great great grandfather Anton Nichelini in a manner that would make him proud.  

A wine maker might say that New Clarvaux’s Viognier has a balanced subtly complex flavor, and pleasant floral notes. At Joneck's we'll just tell you it's yummy and one of the best Viogniers we’ve ever tasted. Come on by and have a glass at Joneck’s.

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Copyright Jonecks LLC. April 2025